Between autumn and winter at the Hochtannberg Pass.
Looking at the bronze-coloured grass lying flat on the slopes, and seeing the sun rise just above the Karhorn, one might almost think the mountains were slowly settling down. Long shadows stretch across the landscape. The mountain huts are closed.
Yet this tranquillity is deceptive. For the people at the Hochtannberg Pass, a very special time of year is now beginning: somewhere between autumn and winter, between the quiet off-season and the approaching peak season. And indeed – the first snowflakes have only just begun to fall.
Yet this tranquillity is deceptive. For the people at the Hochtannberg Pass, a very special time of year is now beginning: somewhere between autumn and winter, between the quiet off-season and the approaching peak season. And indeed – the first snowflakes have only just begun to fall.
Warth and Schröcken on the Hochtannberg Pass. It’s still the off-season in Vorarlberg, up here at 1,679 metres above sea level. We’re out and about to enjoy the views and walking trails, to find peace and relaxation – and to get to know the people of this mountain region.
Together, the two villages have a population of just 394. Each has its own unique character, its own charm and its own philosophy.
Together, the two villages have a population of just 394. Each has its own unique character, its own charm and its own philosophy.
Between the two villages, right at the top of the pass, stands the little Simmel Chapel. For 500 years now, this little church has withstood the harsh conditions of this remote spot.
Until the end of the 19th century, as many as twelve families lived in the so-called Hochkrumbach community. Life at high altitude was hard. During one particularly cold winter, the inhabitants were once even forced to use the few church pews as firewood to protect themselves from the freezing cold.
Fortunately, those days are long gone. Today, this historic site is home to a modern hotel. The Hochtannberg Pass is the starting point for numerous hikes and mountain tours – and in winter forms part of the northernmost extension of Austria’s largest ski area: Ski Arlberg.
300 kilometres of ski runs, linked by more than 85 cable cars and lifts, as well as around 200 ungroomed deep-snow runs, make the region a true freeride paradise in the Alps.
Until the end of the 19th century, as many as twelve families lived in the so-called Hochkrumbach community. Life at high altitude was hard. During one particularly cold winter, the inhabitants were once even forced to use the few church pews as firewood to protect themselves from the freezing cold.
Fortunately, those days are long gone. Today, this historic site is home to a modern hotel. The Hochtannberg Pass is the starting point for numerous hikes and mountain tours – and in winter forms part of the northernmost extension of Austria’s largest ski area: Ski Arlberg.
300 kilometres of ski runs, linked by more than 85 cable cars and lifts, as well as around 200 ungroomed deep-snow runs, make the region a true freeride paradise in the Alps.
The Hochtannberg Pass has remained a place of hope and peace throughout the years. One of only a handful of World Peace Crosses in the world stands visible from afar on the Simmel, a hilltop 1,754 metres high. A place of power. A solemn monument that inspires reflection.
The people living to the east and west of this pass also carry a special kind of peace within them. Here, everyone seems to have found their place – in Warth as well as in Schröcken.
A refreshing pragmatism meets two contrasting senses of time here: a world long past, where the hands of the clock seem almost to have stood still, but also a vibrant modernity that looks openly to the future and breaks new ground.
The people living to the east and west of this pass also carry a special kind of peace within them. Here, everyone seems to have found their place – in Warth as well as in Schröcken.
A refreshing pragmatism meets two contrasting senses of time here: a world long past, where the hands of the clock seem almost to have stood still, but also a vibrant modernity that looks openly to the future and breaks new ground.
Famous people from Warth-Schröcken.
Take Herbert Ritter, for example, who has been driving the ski bus up here for over 60 years. Or Patrik Marinelli, who is the fourth generation to run the Hotel Adler and who also serves as a first responder for the Red Cross and as an air rescue worker, responding to accidents involving guests and locals.
We meet a mayor who also works as a blaster in winter. A family with a unique Olympic history. And people who have found their calling in this extraordinary mountain world: as hiking guides, as ski instructors – or both.
Because one thing quickly becomes clear: the creativity, motivation and unique philosophy of the people here have shaped this region. They have created a place where you don’t just go on holiday, but where you enjoy spending time.
We meet a mayor who also works as a blaster in winter. A family with a unique Olympic history. And people who have found their calling in this extraordinary mountain world: as hiking guides, as ski instructors – or both.
Because one thing quickly becomes clear: the creativity, motivation and unique philosophy of the people here have shaped this region. They have created a place where you don’t just go on holiday, but where you enjoy spending time.
The Schwarzmann family.
Jakob Schwarzmann.
Anyone approaching the Hochtannberg Pass from the west, from the direction of the Bregenzerwald, first passes through the municipality of Schoppernau. From here, the terrain becomes significantly steeper: Schröcken lies more than 400 metres higher than Schoppernau – and yet around 500 metres below the striking World Peace Cross on the Simmel.
There’s a 4**** mountain hut up here. It opened its doors for the first time in the summer of 2022. For walkers. For skiers. For families, connoisseurs and nature lovers. A bit of something for everyone, really: the Berghaus Schröcken.
Hiking guide Andi is still on the premises. He’s only too happy to show guests the natural surroundings right on the doorstep. Jakob and Paul, however, are already raring to go.
“We’re passionate skiers. We also love heading off-piste into deep snow. The northern slopes of this region are famous for that. And when time allows, we’re also out and about as state-certified ski instructors.”
There’s a 4**** mountain hut up here. It opened its doors for the first time in the summer of 2022. For walkers. For skiers. For families, connoisseurs and nature lovers. A bit of something for everyone, really: the Berghaus Schröcken.
Hiking guide Andi is still on the premises. He’s only too happy to show guests the natural surroundings right on the doorstep. Jakob and Paul, however, are already raring to go.
“We’re passionate skiers. We also love heading off-piste into deep snow. The northern slopes of this region are famous for that. And when time allows, we’re also out and about as state-certified ski instructors.”
Andi Tomann.
Actually, Andi prefers to move at a faster pace – as a trail runner in his local mountains. For example, on the Seven Summits Tour Schröcken – a special charity event.
Seven peaks. 48 kilometres. 4,300 metres of elevation gain. All in one go, of course. It took Andi just under nine hours to reach this extraordinary finish line. An impressive achievement.
But his passion for the sport brings with it another advantage: Andi knows almost every trail here – no matter how long or challenging it is.
Seven peaks. 48 kilometres. 4,300 metres of elevation gain. All in one go, of course. It took Andi just under nine hours to reach this extraordinary finish line. An impressive achievement.
But his passion for the sport brings with it another advantage: Andi knows almost every trail here – no matter how long or challenging it is.
Stefan Strolz
We crossed the Hochtannberg Pass heading east. Past the Simmel and back down again, straight into the village of Warth. Winter really does seem to be just around the corner now. The final preparations are underway; the ski season will soon be upon us once more.
This also marks the start of a special time for Stefan Strolz. He is the mayor of Vorarlberg’s second-smallest municipality – followed closely by Schröcken.
Everyone knows everyone here. That doesn’t always make the mayor’s job any easier. It’s quite possible that a photo of a faulty streetlight will end up straight on his mobile. He takes such situations in his stride – and has done so for twelve years now.
This also marks the start of a special time for Stefan Strolz. He is the mayor of Vorarlberg’s second-smallest municipality – followed closely by Schröcken.
Everyone knows everyone here. That doesn’t always make the mayor’s job any easier. It’s quite possible that a photo of a faulty streetlight will end up straight on his mobile. He takes such situations in his stride – and has done so for twelve years now.
“My aim is to carry on running the parish in the same way as we inherited it from our parents. Showing appreciation is particularly important – especially in this day and age. But that also means moving with the times.”
However, Stefan Strolz is not only the mayor, but also, in a sense, a blasting expert. That’s right: as head of the Avalanche Commission, he flies in the helicopter himself to trigger controlled avalanches through targeted blasting.
Patrik Marinelli.
Not far from the spot where the avalanche once reached the valley, we meet Patrik Marinelli. The 32-year-old is the fourth generation to run the Hotel Adler.
The location is extraordinary – as is the history of the hotel.
The location is extraordinary – as is the history of the hotel.
Hubert Strolz & Herbert Ritter.
When the snow is once again metres deep on the mountains, a special time begins for Hubert Strolz and Herbert Ritter too. Both are well known around here – each in his own unique way.
Herbert Ritter.
Herbert Ritter has been driving the ski bus over the Hochtannberg Pass for 60 years now – with plenty of humour, patience and an impressive sense of calm.
Six decades ago, 32 horsepower had to be enough to do the job. Back then, a snow plough was improvised on the spot using an unusual contraption attached directly to the front axle of the minibus. Caution was the top priority.
Yet Ritter always got his passengers safely to their destination. Even in the winter of 1966, when metre-high snowdrifts, some over eight metres high, dominated the roads. To protect winter sports enthusiasts from the masses of snow back then, he transported more than 20 people, packed tightly together, in his vehicle.
Ritter remained calm – and has remained so to this day. Accident-free. Throughout his entire working life.
Numerous prominent guests have also travelled in his minibus. Caroline of Hanover, the Princess of Monaco, for example. Or a Prince of Liechtenstein, who was presumably surprised when his driver introduced himself without further ado as ‘Ritter von Schröcken’.
Six decades ago, 32 horsepower had to be enough to do the job. Back then, a snow plough was improvised on the spot using an unusual contraption attached directly to the front axle of the minibus. Caution was the top priority.
Yet Ritter always got his passengers safely to their destination. Even in the winter of 1966, when metre-high snowdrifts, some over eight metres high, dominated the roads. To protect winter sports enthusiasts from the masses of snow back then, he transported more than 20 people, packed tightly together, in his vehicle.
Ritter remained calm – and has remained so to this day. Accident-free. Throughout his entire working life.
Numerous prominent guests have also travelled in his minibus. Caroline of Hanover, the Princess of Monaco, for example. Or a Prince of Liechtenstein, who was presumably surprised when his driver introduced himself without further ado as ‘Ritter von Schröcken’.
Hubert Strolz.
We’re meeting Hubert Strolz this evening. But if you drive through the region with your eyes peeled, and with a bit of luck, you might also spot him on the ski slopes – or on the numerous posters showing him celebrating his medals alongside his son Johannes.
In 1988 in Calgary, Canada: the exceptional athlete Hubert Strolz won Olympic gold in the combined event. Did his stay in Jamaica, just a week before the Olympic Games, actually make the decisive difference? Strolz himself isn’t entirely sure.
It was, however, a good decision – to clear his head and recharge his batteries.
The contrast afterwards was immense, though, he recalls: freezing cold, dry and completely different from the tropical conditions he’d experienced before. Fortunately, the whole team was well prepared for these challenging conditions.
The whole of Warth celebrated this historic moment – without realising that the Strolz family would go on to write another chapter in this story decades later.
Thirty-four years after Calgary, Hubert’s son Johannes won Olympic gold. In the same discipline.
Father and son. Two Olympic victories. An extraordinary chapter in sporting history.
In 1988 in Calgary, Canada: the exceptional athlete Hubert Strolz won Olympic gold in the combined event. Did his stay in Jamaica, just a week before the Olympic Games, actually make the decisive difference? Strolz himself isn’t entirely sure.
It was, however, a good decision – to clear his head and recharge his batteries.
The contrast afterwards was immense, though, he recalls: freezing cold, dry and completely different from the tropical conditions he’d experienced before. Fortunately, the whole team was well prepared for these challenging conditions.
The whole of Warth celebrated this historic moment – without realising that the Strolz family would go on to write another chapter in this story decades later.
Thirty-four years after Calgary, Hubert’s son Johannes won Olympic gold. In the same discipline.
Father and son. Two Olympic victories. An extraordinary chapter in sporting history.
Author: Benni Sauer | ALPSTYLE Magazine